It’s been a week since the last update and a lot has happened! Almost all of the last week was spent in Washington State, here’s some of what that looked like:

Right after I finished that last post we rolled past this huge rainstorm. I’ve seen approaching storm fronts but never a whole storm, rain and all, so clearly visible in the distance.

Before he got off in Montana I snapped a pic of Danny with his hitchhiking sign. He’s used this exact sign to hitchhike over 30,000 miles and was, in fact, not a weirdo.

Although the Empire Builder (Amtrak’s name for this route) passes right through glacier national park, that section of the route is done almost entirely at night unfortunately. When I woke up I walked to the back of the train and took this shot of the sunrise in eastern Washington.

In Spokane the Empire Builder usually splits in half, with the back half of the train (including the observation car & cafe) heading down to Portland and the front half heading to Seattle. 

At some point in the night, however, a freight train had been blown over en route to Spokane from Portland, and the derailment meant that the entire Empire Builder would go to Seattle. Folks who were headed to Portland would be re-routed on a Seattle to Portland train.

The upshot of all this is that I got the rare opportunity to see the columbia river gorge and the north cascades through the huge windows of the observation car. 

We took this really tight curve and had a pretty incredible view of the front of the train from the back.

The low angle sun created this cool train silhouette shadow.

Entering day 4 of being on the train I was starting to get pretty tired. Even still, it was hard to not appreciate these views of the columbia river.

On the final stretch into Seattle along the puget sound. 

We got some fun train reflections pulling into town.

Made it to Seattle!

I spent the weekend in Seattle visiting some good friends from college including Duffy, pictured here with Tony.

And Henk and Anna, who just got engaged!

And Lindsay, who met up with us for a long day ride.

We also did some hiking to a scenic alpine lake…

…which involved some mild snow traversal that I had not really packed for.

After closing out a lovely weekend, I met up with another college friend, Linus, and we embarked on an overnight bikepacking trip in…

…Mt. Rainier National Park! This view of the mountain towering over everything really never got old, and also never felt normal. It always seemed like this surreal presence on the horizon.

Many threatening signs made it seem like we should definitely not go over this bridge which had been deemed structurally unstable.

So instead we scrambled down under the bridge to a trail which ended up being quite rough. The next day we ran into a ranger who told us (in an unofficial capacity) that we should have just gone over the bridge.

We made our way up river towards our chosen campground, but on the way learned that the road to the campground had washed out in multiple places…

…and that we’d be better off camping at this abandoned ranger station. This ended up being a real blessing because it was already getting pretty late by the time we got here.

That ranger station was right next to the Carbon river, which we spent the next morning biking back down.

We must have passed half a dozen skate parks during these two days out on our bikes. This one was definitely the most creative though.

After a very scenic ride long lush rail trails Linus and I parted ways and I biked to the Tacoma Amtrak station to catch a train down to Portland (Oregon).

Portland’s beautiful 130 year old union station fortunately survived the downturn of passenger rail in the US in the 70s, and is among the busiest Amtrak stations in the system. 

Fun fact: The house I live in in Portland (Maine) is 20 years older than this building! 

That’s where I’ll leave off for now! I’m currently in Portland (Oregon) prepping for a multi-day bikepacking adventure in the mountains and won’t get to post another update for a couple weeks. Thanks for reading!
I’m writing from sunny Wheelock North Dakota rolling along past endless farmland punctuated by the occasional small town or piece of oil field infrastructure. I’m 3/4ths of the way through crossing the US by train and it’s been a whirlwind. Here’s some of what the past 72 hours have looked like:

Zipping through Connecticut on what will be the fastest (and only electrified) train of the whole trip, the northeast regional, which tops out at ~125mph. This view out the back of the last car is one of my favorites.

The first long distance train on this journey is the Lake Shore Limited from NYC to Chicago. The first section along the hudson is gorgeous.

In Albany the Lake Shore Limited from NYC is combined with a section from Boston. This involves spinning the NYC section around and linking it to the Boston section. During this layover I successfully convinced some guys from the RPI frisbee team to bring me food from a really good Mediterranean place near campus, in exchange for buying them some. The food on the amtrak trains is generally pretty mediocre so this was a welcome change.

 

This is what a coach seat on an Amtrak long distance train gets you! The seats are wide and recline pretty far. When you have the whole row to yourself it’s not too hard to sprawl out and get comfy.

One of the first sights of the second day: Toledo union station. Like many other stations across the US it’s a shell of it’s former self. Despite having 7 platforms it now only serves 2 trains a day in each direction.

I had a ~4 hour layover in Chicago and spent most of it with my friend Patrick biking around…

…and going for a dip before getting on the next long distance train, the Empire Builder, which runs from Chicago to Portland/Seattle.

After getting back on the train I met two guys in the observation car (pictured below) both name Danny. Danny on the right lived in one of neighborhoods I grew up playing in as a kid. We also happened to have worked on the same construction project in mid-town manhattan. Small world!

Danny on the left is a recently retired addiction counselor from the Adirondacks and regaled us with endless anecdotes about hitchhiking all over the US. If you’ve ever seen someone hitchhiking with a sign that reads “not a weirdo” it was probably Danny. After two hours of chatting he had recommended no less than a dozen genuinely interesting seeming books/movies/podcasts.

The observation car sits in the middle of the train and has floor to ceiling windows, and a cafe downstairs.

As the sun set on day 2 a huge storm rolled through and left some wild looking clouds that I could hardly capture on camera.

A few times a day there are “fresh air breaks” where they let everyone get off the train and stretch their legs.

I’ll close out this post with some cool sights from today so far

This “blog”: 

I’m not really sure what I want this “blog” thing to look like yet, but for now the plan is to post periodic updates about where I am and how the trip is going. Probably picture heavy and text light but we’ll see. I hope it stays interesting, happy to hear any suggestions 🙂

The Route:

Red lines are train (and sometimes bus) and green lines are bike sections. The intention for this trip is to visit a bunch of friends, and do some bikepacking along the way!

I’m on an Amtrak Rail Pass which gives you 10 “segments” of any length within a month. A “segment” is a seat on a single train. So for instance Boston to NY is one segment (on the Northeast Regional), but Chicago to Seattle also only counts as one segment. Here are some of the train segments I’m going to take:

The rail pass costs $500 which quickly becomes worth it. The segments above, for example, would total to ~$1,100, and I could still book another 4 segments on the same pass.

The Bike:

“It is, objectively, not a good bike”

 

I’m riding what I think is a 2017 Fuji Nevada that I got from a friend a few years ago, with a smattering of random parts. The only two things that are original to the bike are the frame and cranks. Here are some of my favorite bits:

  • 3×11 with a really really low granny gear
  • Internally routed dropper seat post 🙂
  • Slightly swept flat bars & aero bars that don’t really fit on the handlebars but fit with my arms/body really well
  • Rear rack tang mounted titanium water bottle cage because it makes Gordon mad (and has actually worked pretty well so far 🤞🏻)

The Stuff:

 

Here’s (almost) everything I’m bringing! Happy to dive into more detail if folks are curious, but here are some best bits:

  • Maybe my only truly brand new piece of gear, a MH nimbus 2 that I can’t wait to actually sleep in
  • 30 degree EE quilt that I’m borrowing from rachel that will be so cozy
  • Caturday cat ears

Here are the bags & stuff I didn’t want on my bed. I made the stem bags & bar bag (with help from Landis), and Jan made the lovely fork bags that I will treasure forever <3.

Not pictured but coming: Chain lube, extra bike bottle, extra tube

Pictured but not coming: Hacksaw

 

Thanks for reading! The last thing that’s coming with me is Tony the octopus, everybody say hi Tony